Where wine is concerned archiv means 'vintage' in Czech and the creative wine list for this cosy mostly French restaurant is its raison d'etre. The wines are mostly French too, but you can also try extremely rare Moravian vintages. Alaso rarely found in Prague are crab, mussels and other shellfish on the menu.
Masna 3
Stare Mesto
Bellevue
Telephone: 02 2222 1438
An air of formality that is quite unusual for Prague reigns at the priciest of the four establishments of restauranter Sanjiv Suri's highly successful chain. The place prides itself on its view of the river and Prazky Hrad (Prague Castle), although the busy street separating the restaurant from the Vltava River may distract diners on the small terrace. You can order a la cart or select from a number of different menus featuring European and Bohemian dishes. The city's expats made Sunday brunch here almost an institution
Smetanovo nabrezi 18
Stare Mesto
Cafe de Paris
Telephone: 02 2422 2151
If Obecni dum's (Municipal House) huge cafe is full on a summer's afternoon, you can often find a sat at this small, equally genuine art nouveau coffee house across the street. Light, internatioanl dishes are available such as pasta, Caeser Salad and bagel sandwiches.
Hotel Pariz
U Obecniho Domu 1
Stare Mesto
Cafe Konvikt
Telephone: 02 2423 2427
Popular with a young, trendy crowd, this inexpensive gathering place has a lofty room with views out to one of Stare Mesto's new renovated courtyards. Just a few things are on the menu including babovka - chocolate cake!
Bartolomejska 11
Stare Mesto
Cajovna U Zlateho kohouta
Telephone: 02 2421 3435
The place looks like a medieval alehouse, but the brew is strictly tea here. All kinds are available including Vietnamese and Javanese varieties and mate, a herb tea from South America. Very limited menu.
Michalska 3
Stare Mesto
Clementinum
Telephone: 02 2481 3892
The word restaurace is at the front of this green awned restaurant, bit it works just as well as a sophitsicated bistro. Its bright coloutfull interior and freindly service make it a fiine setting for lunch or an afternoon snack, although the tables are set with enough formality to see you through an evening meal of European and Czech dishes. At lunch the eclectic, reasonably priced offerings include potato gnochi with salmon and seasonal specials such as fresh spinach dunplings or asparagus Flemish style.
Platernerska 9
Stare Mesto
Don Giovanni
Telephone: 02 2222 2060
Big windows, big photos of Italian celebrities on the pink and white walls - it sounds a bit brash, but the effect works here, as does the Italian cuisine, which covers all the major regional specialities with a strong seafood bias. Italian diplomats have made this a prime site near Karluv most (Charles Bridge) their home from home. The two course lunch specials are good value for money.
Karoliny Svetle 34
Stare Mesto
Ebel Coffee House
Telephone: 02 2489 5788
Aromas of freshest coffee emanate form this comfortable, American style spot for java, bagels and cakes. The interior is simple, with wooden chairs and small tables, and cases displaying coffee beans and bagels for sale, as well as local Czech and English language newspapers to read. The cakes include traditional style American brownies and chocolate chip cookies.
Tyn 2
(between Tynska and Stupartska)
Stare Mesto
Hoffmeister
Telephone: 02 5101 7111
Here's a hotel where the art in your room actually bears looking at. Everything is an original by Adolf Hoffmeister, a skilled collage maker and caricaturist of Picasso, Virginia Woolf and many more. Hoffmeister's son Martin who built the hotel in the early 1990's tales pride in the Morovian and imported wines stored in the cellars and srved in the restaurant (which serves and Czech and international cuisine) and wine bar. The hotel has 42 rooms and belongs to the exclusive Relais & Chateaux group.
Pod Bruskou 7,
Mala Strana
Kavarna Slavia / Cafe Slavia
Telephone: 02 2421 8493
The art deco, high windowed Cafe Slavia, queen of Prague's cafes, has welcomed just about every notable Prague writer, mucisian and actor over the past century. You can order the fabled artist's tipple, absinthe here (it's distilled legally in the Czech Republic). But before you do, examine the haunted devotee of the bitter liqueur staring out from the painting at the far end of the room. Otherwise there's coffee, wine, beer, and light meals, including salads and Czech standbys such as toast topped with various meats. Best of all, linger over a drink, admire the marble and stainless steel 1930's interior and watch the world drift by.
Smetanova nabrezi
Stare Mesto
Klub Architektu
Telephone: 02 2440 1214
Younf people pack this attractive, stone vaulted, space beneath the Betlemske Kaple (Bethlehem Chapel). The menu offers Czech comfort food like smazeny syr (fried cheese) smazeny celer (fried celery). There are however, also English menus available here, as in many tourists restaurants.
Betlemske namesti 5a
Stare Mesto
Konvikt Pub
Telephone: 02 2423 1971
Pilsner Urquell, the less bitter Gabrinus from the same brewer. and of all things, Czech stout, are the house beers here. The mood is easy going.
Bartolomejska 11
Stare Mesto
La Brise
Telephone: 02 2482 4909
Spare and stylish describes both the menu abd the decor in this restaurant offering a deft fusion of French and Japanese cuisine prepared by a Japanese chef. Seafood features prominently on each of the three daily menus. There are also less expensive three course menus.
Rybna 13
Stare Mesto
La Provence
Telephone: 02 9005 4510
In one of those odd culinary juxta-positions typical of this city's modern day revival, here you can sample decently priced French country cooking in a cellar below a tapas bar oozing the trendy crowd. If the night time scene in this coolest corner of Stare Mesto isn't your thing, go at lunch time for coq au vin or bouillabaisse in calmer surroundings.
Stupartska 9
Stare Mesto
Lotos
Telephone: 02 232 2390
Its rarely a problem to find seating at this vegetarian restaurant, as the meat loving Czechs tend to turn up their noses at such cuisine. The fruit and grain soups and eclectic salads are the best things here. The main courses are built on central or southern European cooking, such as vegetable strudels and polenta combinations. They are imaginitive and satisfying.
Platernerska 13
Stare Mesto
Meloun
Telephone: 02 2423 0126
The cellar bar at the "Melon", an eclectic music / dance club attracts more locals thanis usual in the heart of the Old Town because it is relatively inexpensive and doesn't tend to go for tourist crowd. The interior is old, vaulted and brick lined, more intimate than a typical pub. There is no food on offer, just a short drinks list and beers.
Michalska 12
Stare Mesto
Ostroff
Telephone: 02 2491 9235
A sleek crowd strolls over to Strelcky ostrov (Shooters Island) mid-river between Mala Strana and the national theatre, for Italian food and wines that do justice to the setting. The excellent view of the river is denied those in the main underground dining room, but abundantly available in the summer for diners on the terrace, or from the inspiringly long bar all year round.
Strelecky ostrov 336
(accessible from the most Legii Bridge)
Palac Kinskych
Telephone: 02 2481 0750
An inconspicuous entrance at the back of the National Gallery's main office leads to this barrel arched dining room that is lit sufficiently low for descreet conversation whilst at the same time feeling open and welcoming. An excellent wine list accompanies a menu offering European and Czech dishes. Tourists, however, will most likely be shown an English menu. The wines served here can also be sampled at the proprietor's wine bar, Sekt Bar, at the front of the Kinsky Palace. The entrance is on 11 Staromestke namesti (Old Town Square)
Tynska ulicka 3
(off Tynska)
Stare Mesto
Pizzeria Rugantino
Telephone: 02 231 8172
Pizza was a rarity in Prague until the changes of 1989 opened the door to more that just political freedom. The pizzas and salads are excellent in this big, always busy place, which is popular with just anout everyone from backpackers to local celebrities. Noete that they do not accept credit cards.
Dusni 4
Stare Mesto
Rasoi
Telephone: (restaurant) 02
Informal atmosphere, good service and the city's most authentic Indian cooking to date make this a popular choice - as mild or as hot as you like. The same menu is available at lunch upstairs in the saloon like Bombay Cafe, where you can get South Indian "bar food" such as puri cakes to nibble with your Bobbay G&T!
Dlouha 13
Stare Mesto
Rybi trh
Telephone: 02 2489 5447
Unlike the city's older riverside seafood restaurants, Rybi trh (The Fish Market) lies inland amid the recently gentrified confines of the Tyn courtyard, off Staromestske namesti (Old Town Square). A huge selection od seafood is available, some of it is swimming in the aquaria scattered around. There are two sparsely decorated dining rooms at the courtyard level and also a brick arched cellar below.
Tyn 5
(between Tynska and Stupartska)
Stare Mesto EMAIL
n.a
U Benedikta
Telephone: 02 2482 6912
Here's where to sample the hearty beef, pork and poultry dishes beloved by the true Bohemians whilst downing mugs of crisp Bernard beer. The surroundings offer old prints of Prague scenes, simple wodden furniture and a small terrace outside.
Benediktska 11
Stare Mesto
U Spriku
Telephone: none given
At this no nonsense pub, the house beverage is biting Krusovice - one of the last few big domestic brewers that is still Czech owned.
Kozna 12
Stare Mesto
U sv Valentina
Telephone: 02 232 7622
Little "St Valantine's" feels more low budget elegance than romatic, a mood created through replica art nouveau furniture and wallpaper with tastfully shaddowy still life pictures on the walls. The traditional Czech menu emphasises various renditions of stuffed and breaded pork, as well as chicken, carp, trout and the inevitable knedliky (dumplings)
Veleslavinova 5
Stare Mesto
U Vejodu
Telephone: 02 2421 9205
A former smoky ancient has emerged from reconstruction as a skylit Pilsner palace where visitors won't feel intimidated and locals appreciate the affordable prices.
Jilska 4
Stare Mesto
U Vejodu
Telephone: 02 2421 9205
A former smoky ancient has emerged from reconstruction as a skylit Pilsner palace where visitors won't feel intimidated and locals appreciate the affordable prices.
Jilska 4
Stare Mesto
U Zlateho Tygra
Telephone: 02 2222 1111
Many tales surround "The Golden Tiger" and at least one is right: no pub in Prague serves a better Pilsner Urquell beer. The interior has long wooden tables and benches and old prints of Prague. One novelty is the phots of a grinning Bill Clinton drinking here with Vaclav Havel and the late writer Bohumil Hrabal
Husova 17
Stare Mesto
V Zatisi
Telephone: 02 333 1155
Winning so much praise an so many awards han not spoiled Zatisi, which still seems like an island amid a sea of touristy restaurants. The interior here is low key elegance - white walls in noe room, ochre in another, and vaulted ceilings. The welcome is unstuffy and welcoming. There's nothing fadish abouth the cooking - just skillfully prepared European fare with enough Czech touches to tremind you that, after all, you're in Prague's Old Town. The menu, like those at owner Sanjiv Suri's other city eateries, now feauture half a dozen fish dishes, depending on the day's "catch" of imported seafood. If you want local cuisine, try the Bohemian raost goose in honey-lavender sauce. Chocaholics rave over the cokoladova pena (chocolate mousse)
Liliova 1
(at Betlemske namesti)
Stare Mesto
Zlata ulicka
Telephone: 02 232 0884
A Yugoslav restaurant with exceptionally freindly service. "Golden Lane" became a hit among quality starved Praguers when it opened in the early 1990's. It is very small, with a three person bar and four or five tables slightly bigger than a dinner plate. It is painted shades of green and blue and decorated with old letters and documents stuck to what look like windows, but are actually just props. Different but pleasant. It's best to go for the simple, spicy Balkan traditions and the baked apples is excellent! Note they do not accept credit cards.